It's being called a test tube burger, a lab burger, an in
vitro burger. When I asked by husband if he would eat a burger grown in a petri
dish, he replied, "If you didn't tell me it was grown in a petri dish, I
would."
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At an event held in London on this day, August 5, 2013, a
hamburger grown in a petri dish, originating from the cells of cow muscle is
cooked up and served. This is cultured meat, not meaning it has a certain
elegant style – or perhaps it does- but rather that it's been grown much like
any other culture, such as a throat swab.
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, aka, PETA, are
all for this. They don't want cows, pigs, chickens, etc to endure the horrid
conditions now so well documented that are associated with raising animals for
food. So taking a bit of tissue from a cow muscle and growing a burger means
animals will provide the cells for meat, not become the meat itself.
There are other considerations as well: environmental,
financial, and of course, world hunger. We all want a healthier planet, a more
robust global economy, and a well-fed population.
But really, are burgers the way to go? I suppose the science
behind lab-grown food had to start somewhere, and it's probably easier to grow
a burger than, say, a radish when it comes to cultured food. With pundits
screeching about obesity and the crappy diets that cause it, is this the sort
of thing that is going to further encourage veggies and grains over meat and
potatoes?
Now, to be fair, the burger is actually fat free, by any FDA
standard. It's strictly muscle tissue, which doesn't contain fat. This isn't a
greasy half-pounder. It is five ounces of lean meat. It's the kind of burger
that Weight Watchers or Jenny Craig would certainly encourage the clientele to
include in their diets.
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So, a leaner hamburger that also saves the planet and ends
world hunger is really quite revolutionary. Let's all hear it for the
lab-burger.
How does it taste? According to food writer Josh Schonwald,
one of the tasters at the London event, the burger was more like "animal proteincake". The lab-burger had the texture and appearance of meat, but wasn't
wildly flavorful. But any Contemporary Cook worth her herbs can turn that
around – a bit of ketchup, onion, and some dried parsley mixed in to the meat and
you've got a delicious hamburger.
This technology is born of stem cell research aimed at
helping humans with debilitating medical conditions or damaged body parts. But
that particular goal involved ethical issue, primarily because the research
required stem cells from human fetuses. But it would seem that helping humans
overcome pain and life-threatening diseases isn't high on the list for
organizations such as PETA. But God forbid we eat a cow.
The lab-burger though, is still meat. The goal of this
culinary innovation is to feed the carnivores of this planet. Should it prove a cruelty free source of meat,
will vegetarians and vegans who abstain now come to the dark side because the
cruelty factor is removed?
The experts won't be churning out lab-burgers anytime soon; this
one burger cost several thousand dollars to grow. But if we, as humans, stopped
eating meat, this technology would perhaps be put to better use, perhaps
determining ways to improve soil for home gardens, or grow grains in a more
efficient way. Or perhaps, to help humans in distress.
As an omnivore, I applaud the effort, and hope for the best
outcome from this expensive experiment. As a Contemporary Cook, I believe I
could make this in vitro meat taste good. As the parent of a vegetarian, I
don't think it will convert any meat-free people into carnivores. As a human, I
wonder if we're headed in the right direction when it comes to stem cells and
the research surrounding it.
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